First pull off the FRC's. Next you need relieve the pressure in the rail. Unscrew the Schrader valve cap located at the front end of the driver's side fuel rail.


It's similar to a tire valve so you can relieve the pressure in the same fashion.


Using a small screwdriver or other appropriate tool, hold a rag over the valve while pushing in on the pin to relieve the fuel pressure. Be careful to protect your face from spraying fuel. If the car has been sitting for a couple of hours or more, the pressure will most likely be quite low.


Next, you'll need a fuel line disconnect tool similar to this one.


Arrange a rag to catch gasoline spillage around the fuel line before attempting removal. Place the disconnect tool over the line and push the prongs into the fuel line connector while pulling back on the braided line to pull it away from the tube. You'll need to do this twice if you have a '97 or '98 since there are two fuel lines connected to the fuel rail assembly.


I keep an assortment of cap plugs handy to cap off fuel, brake, coolant and other lines.


Now, remove the injector electrical connectors by pushing in on the metal wire clip and pulling up on the connector simultaneously.


Then remove the four studded fuel rail screws with a deepwell 10 mm socket. Using an 8 mm socket, loosen the intake manifold screw with the grounding strap on the passenger side so you can move it out of the rail's path when you're ready to remove it.

Make sure all wiring harnesses and other obstructions are clear and pull up on the fuel rail assembly from both sides simultaneously. The injectors will pop out of the manifold. It may take some force so be careful and apply leverage judiciously.


The entire assembly with the injectors should come out as a unit. Here it is upside-down on the bench.


To remove the injectors, pull the retaining clip out and pull the injector out of the cup. It will require a bit of force as it's held in with an o-ring. Some fuel will probably spill out as you remove it as well so be ready with a rag.


Here's a side-by-side comparison of a stock '02 28 lb./hr. injector and the FMS injector.


A picture of one the injector ports in the manifold.


Make sure the cup is clean and free of debris.


Lubricate the injector o-ring with a small amount of fresh motor oil and firmly push the top straight into the cup until it seats. Then slide the retaining clip on until it snaps into place.

Be sure the clip has captured the lip of the cup so the injector can't pop out of the rail..

For future reference, I marked the stock injectors

 
 
Install the remainder of the  injectors
Place the rail assembly carefully in place over the manifold, making sure each injector is sitting inside it's manifold port, and firmly push down on the rails to seat each injector. They should pop in solidly. You can tell if they are all seated by using a flashlight to inspect the ports. Also, the rail brackets should be completely seated on the manifold. Replace the screws and torque them to 89 in. lbs. Reconnect the injector connectors by snapping them down onto the injectors and replace the fuel line(s).


Double-check all connections. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position but don't start the engine. You should hear the fuel pump pressurize the system. Check for any sign of leaks in the engine bay.


Before going any further, most folks will need to scale the injector fuel flow increase these injectors provide. I didn't in my case because I was already running quite lean. When I scanned the car after the install, the fuel trims looked much better. They were now in the range where I would need to make smaller adjustments.